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www.groovekorea.com / December 2014 72 D uring the summer months, Korea’s most famous tourist destination, Jeju Island, is inundated with tourists from all over the world. Many visit for the natural beauty of Cheonji- yeon Waterfall, the silvery sands of Hyeopjae Beach and the daunting caverns of the Manjang Cave, while some prefer Gimnyoung Maze, the Trick Art Museum or even the erotic sculptures of Love Land. But then there’s Jeju in winter. Because most tourists opt to vacation in warmer climates, this is when the island clears out. Jeju’s ubiquitous green vegetation is replaced by determined weeds and gnarled black trees, the stuff of nightmares; birds and residents alike migrate south and the wind, a sadistic and relentless gale hailing from the Korea Strait, ensures that sightseeing is an adventure. cAmArAderie At tHe bAse Last winter I was one of these few travelers who braved frigid temperatures and knee-high snow banks to spend my December vacation climbing Hallasan, Korea’s highest mountain. I’d climbed it twice before, but each time the volcanic crater at the peak eluded me due to a combination of bad luck and uncooperative weather. This time, with the forecast predicting clear skies, I was determined to see the crater and its mythical lake. I decided to travel with a group of veteran snow hikers on the premise that they wouldn’t allow me to fail in my mission in the dead of winter. On our first day we started with the flat yet impressive Olle Trail, a prelude to the trials to come. And while the hiking was easy, the weather was a stark reminder of why most of my acquaintances had fled to the Philippines and Thailand for their winter vacations — it was freezing. Hikers were huddling inside the Buddhist altars we passed on the premise of prayer, but I got the distinct impression most were just try- ing to gain a short respite from that bitter wind. Later, we gathered at one of Jeju Island’s heu- kdwaeji (black pig pork) restaurants for a celebra- tory barbecue dinner, where one of the older men immediately took up the tongs and began throwing thick slabs of meat on the grill. Mandatory shots of soju were passed around, and we all found several excuses to toast one another with our one-shot liquor. Tomorrow would be a big day. JeJu’s ubiquitous green vegetation is replaced by determined weeds and gnarled black trees, the stuff of nightmares; birds and residents alike migrate south, and the wind — a sadistic and relentless gale hailing from the korea strait — ensures that sightseeing is an adventure. DESTINATIONS Edited by Shelley DeWees (shelley@groovekorea.com)