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89 S imon J. Powell is a self-described wanderer with an eye for detail. His forays into Jeju’s Seomun Market have helped him uncover hidden treasures in its narrow lanes, with his close connections to his subjects adding another layer of meaning to the stories behind the displays. Groove Korea: Give us an introduction to your- self and your photography. Simon J. Powell: I am photographer, violinist and educator — a kid out of school, another fool, just cycling around the world in search of cool. I am still taking my toddler steps in the world of photography, but I have learned that all the neces- sary ingredients can be found before my eyes and that skill in seeing is more valuable than the price of equipment. I am interested in shape, line, pattern, the heavy aesthetic impact of high-contrast mono- chrome and finding intriguing angles through which to view the world. Most of all I like to roam. Trav- eling forces us to view life from fresh and original perspectives. It engenders a childlike curiosity in me at even the smallest details of the day. Wanderlust and wonder are intimately intertwined. Before buy- ing new gear, I would always choose to buy new experiences. Why Seomun Market? What makes it such an interesting place to visit? An ambience of mysterious gravity resides in Seo- mun Market. At first glance, it appears little more than a lonely alley, but a landscape that has faded into nostalgic memory elsewhere on Jeju remains preserved in this quiet corner of the city. Some stalls resemble little museums of the island’s past. At the heart of the market are the merchants, who for more than half a century have proudly fought to exist in the city’s old center. Their experiences and mem- ories of bygone times, bitter and sweet, are woven into the fabric of Jeju’s history. The stories are told in broad, beaming smiles and written in wrinkles, tattooed on the smooth skin of hands that lovingly caress produce and are well-worn tools. To read it with your own eyes, you need only take a stroll down the market lane. Any technical tips and tricks for getting the best from the market with your camera? Keep it turned on and always be ready! Life in the market seems to saunter along sedately, but those per- fect photogenic moments always flash past in a fleeting instant. Besides that, lighting can be a bit tricky when shooting indoors in dimly lit nooks, or outside under aw- nings that splay a patchwork of shadow and bright light across the stalls. I like to go at various times of day to learn when certain areas are illuminated or shaded. What is the most important thing for you when photographing people in the market? Too many foreign photographers shoot Korea from the perspective of an outsider peering tentatively across a divide. There is a palpable sense of physical and men- tal detachment. Photography can be a way for us to connect with people — to better understand their ex- periences, thoughts and emotions. If we are genuinely curious about our subjects, our images gain in intima- cy and connect with viewers on a deeper level. Rather than shoving my camera willy-nilly in the faces of un- suspecting grannies while flying past, I frequented the market for several months, during which time I listened to their life stories and built genuine friendships. it would be easy to work up an appetite while photographing such a place. What’s around for lunch? Are there any local specialties there? Seomun Market is unique in all of Jeju for the partner- ship between the butchers and restaurants. There are several stalls on the street selling Jeju beef and black pork of unsurpassable quality. Buy the choicest, juiciest cuts, sliced from the bone to order, and take them in- side to one of the many cozy restaurants where you can cook your own meat and enjoy tasty side dishes and soups made from fresh market ingredients. Another hidden treasure inside the market building is Halmoni Soondae. Kim Cheong-hyang makes the most delicious and flavorsome soondae on the island, the traditional way with buckwheat and sticky rice. She began working in Seomun Market at the age of 29. Now 85, she has been the last person to turn off the market lights for more than 50 years.