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May 2014June 2014 Down the Marmot’s Hole More than cod Urban exploration April 2014 The rise of the sandwich Fast-tracking in Tokyo At Pyongyang Restaurant, it’s not about the food The women’s issue The art of the tease From Seoul to Chuncheon on a bike Cover photo by Dylan Goldby Design by park Seong-eun “Itaewon Freedom” is a single written and performed by JYP. The single can be found on YouTube or jype.com. Groove Korea’s parody of the single was in no way approved by JYP. Special thanks to Club Mute for providing the venue, Varyd for wardrobe and styling and Tessa Jeon for hair and makeup. –Ed. O U R p A S T T H R E E I S S U E S Written by J.Y. Park and performed with K-pop outfit UV, the 2010 pop hit “Itaewon Freedom” reflects a generation of Koreans who have grown up with a sense of belonging among Itaewon’s restau- rants and bars. Dave Hazzan explores the history of the neighbor- hood, from its early days as the epicenter of “professional” services to its transition into a “Special Tourism Zone.” Though the number of people who remember it during its GI heydays is dwindling, those who remain share stories of a neighborhood that has never ceased to provide “comforts” to locals and foreigners alike. C o V e R Read the story on page 24. Itaewon freedom