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65 Kim used his earnings to establish his own arts and crafts center. At this time, a neighbor brought him a postage stamp with the image of a traditional Korean mask on it, and asked him if he could produce one like it. Kim decided ‘Why not?’ and tried. More info For more on the Andong mask dance, visit www.maskdance.com. For a discussion of masks in general with mention of Kim Dong-pyo, visit www.debbelldesigns.com/publications/the-mask-maker-s-magic. For the Hahoe Mask Museum, visit www.mask.kr. became his mentor, and studied under him for one year before work- ing as a laborer in Iran to save money. Returning to Seoul, he used his earnings to establish his own arts and crafts center. At this time, a neighbor brought him a postage stamp with the image of a traditional Korean mask on it, and asked him if he could produce one like it. Kim decided “Why not?” and tried. His first attempt at a mask resulted in an inferior product. Angry at himself, he tried again and again to hand carve a perfect mask until he finally succeeded through self-teaching. However, learning through trial and error to make high-quality masks was not enough to make his Seoul business succeed, and Kim lost all his money after two years. Returning to his native Andong, Kim set about establishing himself as a preserver of the Korean folk tradition for which the city is fa- mous. There he specialized in Andong masks for the talnori, a local dance dating from the mid-Joseon period that, like the byeolsingut, was a way for the common folk to express feelings that they were not allowed to speak, and thus promoted understanding between the common folk and the aristocrats. Masks were also used in praying for rain, peace or a good harvest. Kim is interested in masks every- where as an ancient religious phenomenon that predates Christianity, Buddhism and Islam, and considers them masterpieces of human ingenuity. In Korea, masks survived Confucian rationalism and Bud- dhist introspection. After years of hard work and travel to collect masks, Kim founded the Hahoe Mask Museum in 1995, and was granted official per- mission to call it a museum the following year. It houses a stunning collection of masks from places as diverse as Mongolia, Italy, Africa, India, North America, Malaysia, Indonesia and Papua New Guinea. Kim bought every piece in it with his own money, and proudly shares them with all who come. Next to the museum is Kim’s workshop, which is no larger than a two-car garage. Kim is content here, with his tools and current proj- ects lying on his work table. On the wall is a large photo of him meet- ing Queen Elizabeth II when she visited Andong for her birthday in 1999. Only three people were allowed to present her with gifts, one of whom was Kim. He approached Her Majesty wearing a woman’s hanbok and talnori mask, since traditionally only male dancers act in the talnori; he smiles while telling of her surprise when he removed the mask and she realized he was a man. After his success with the Queen, there came such a demand for his masks that he is constantly busy. Behind the museum is a tourist area, and here Kim treats us to lunch. Naturally, we eat Andong’s famous stewed chicken (jjimdak), which we wash down with dongdongju. Not everyone can secure an introduction to Kim, but his museum is there for all to see, and is well worth a visit for anyone going to the Andong area.