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www.groovekorea.com / April 2014 6 I used to read a book to second graders called “Better Move on, Frog.” A frog would go to different animals’ homes. At each home a different animal would say, “Better move on Frog.” A bee, a badger – they all told him the same thing. Eventually he ended up at a pond, where he was welcomed by other frogs. Now I am the frog, and it is time to move on. But before I do, I want to recognize some of the restaurants that have sustained me through seven years in Korea. What follows is a list of my favorite restaurants in Seoul and why I love them. 1. OKitchen: OKitchen is the best restaurant I have ever eat- en at, anywhere. When I visited in 2008 my palate was forever changed for the better. Chef Susumu Yongari is the man respon- sible. The sashimi plate there is the most interesting plate of food I’ve ever had, a nine-bite masterpiece of raw seafood and acidity. I had my first taste of truffle at OKitchen, my first lamb ragù and my first terrine. My first visit there was with my wife, long before either of us thought we’d get married some day. I will be forever grateful to Yongari for enriching my life. 2. Everest: The Indian Subcontinent is my favorite place to trav- el because of the colors, the smells, the general liveliness and above all, the bold, spicy, textured, unique cuisine. I love Everest because it embodies all that. The food is expertly made, from the fiery hot vindaloo to the thin, chewy naan to the dense and crumbly samosas. But eating there is about more than food. Try it and you’ll see – with its mint green walls, prayer flags, nooks, knickknacks, Bollywood movies, crowds, incense and cold beer, eating at Everest is just fun. 3. Trevia Pizza di Roma: In Seoul, it is imminently possible to pay a little money for poor food. It is also possible to pay a lot of mon- ey for good food. And sadly, it is possible to pay a lot of money for poor food. It is the rare restaurant that manages to serve good food for little money. Trevia is one of those pla ces. Their pizza is thin and chewy, with a crisp crust. Their toppings are high quali- ty – buffalo mozzarella, chorizo, fresh basil, kabocha squash. The atmosphere is comfortable and refined without being pretentious. It’s my favorite pizza place on earth, and dinner for my wife and I is always around 30,000 won. 4. Casablanca: Wahid and Karim Naciri made a contribution to Seoul’s expat community when they opened their sandwich shop in Haebangcheon in 2011. They gave us some insanely good sandwiches – the best in the city, in my opinion. Who knew chick- en breast, fried potatoes and French bread could be so good? But they also became part of expat culture: A place that everyone vis- its. A place where people run into each other. A place people talk about. They helped create something that can be difficult to find when you’re a stranger in a strange land: a sense of community. 5. Zelen: Before first eating at Mihal Ashminov’s restaurant in 2008, I had never had Bulgarian food. I knew nothing about Bul- garian food. Or Bulgaria. Now I know: It is all about roasted meats and vegetables, smoked cheese, pickles and yogurt. Bulgarian food is simple and hearty and charred and grilled and rich and saucy. For years Zelen has been my go-to recommendation for expats looking for a nice dinner out. I’ve yet to meet the person who didn’t like their honest, filling and tasty food. With their lively décor, deep and interesting wine list, and group-friendly menu options, Zelen is a satisfying restaurant for a date, a meal out with friends or a celebration. Missing from this list are the many dozens of Korean restaurants I have relished eating at over the years. There are too many to list. Suffice it to say that Korean cuisine remains one of my favorites in the world, and I am grateful to all the cooks throughout the pen- insula who have introduced me to hansik’s wonderful complexity over the years. Music & Arts Into the mind of Martyn Thompson Korea looks different through the eyes of Martyn Thompson. Its animals are encased in Perspex. Its people are blotted with stamps. Its mountains are shattered, its bachelors naked and forced into stress positions. Since 2008, Thompson has sought to show Korea back to itself in his own pe- culiar way. Thompson always drew and he was influenced by his parents’ artistic endeavors. His grandmother gave him coloring books as Christmas and birthday presents “until the age of 14, when she had no idea I was far too old to be getting coloring books.” At 15 he had himself excluded from religious studies class, so he could focus on his art. All he did was draw pictures then, anyway. Story by Dave Hazzan Read it online in April or in print in May Insight The big bucks in beauty “The more you spend in Korea, the more beautiful you will be,” says Kim Hye-ra, a 28-year-old office worker from Seoul, as she peers at her per- fectly manicured nails. “I haven’t had surgery, but that’s just because I haven’t had the money to do it yet. I guess I should save, but I’m always spending my money on my hair and nails and makeup.” Kim says she’s been keeping up with Korean beauty ideals since she was a teenager. She visits the nail salon every week to get a manicure, gel color and nail art, and has her hair colored or restyled bimonthly, though she declined to disclose her spending. “I do it to keep up with my friends and coworkers. … I don’t want to be the ugly duck. No one does.” It’s no secret that beauty is big business in the country nicknamed “the republic of plastic surgery.” But women in Korea aren’t just digging deep to go under the knife. They are also shelling out for non-evasive procedures, regular beauty treatments, cosmetics and makeup. Story by Remy Raitt Read it online in April or in print in May Hot on: www.groovekorea.com To comment, email editor@groovekorea.com EDITORIAL A fArewell, And the food editor’s fAvorite s By Josh Foreman, Food and Destinations Editor Editorial thAnk you And good-bye to the restAurAnts i’ve enjoyed over the yeArs