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75 Seonjae Island is the most accessible of this tri-grouping, located just off the coast near Incheon and connected to the Korean mainland by a bridge. Stepping onto the island drops you in the middle of the countryside, where the smell of grapes wafts from the vineyards if the wind blows just right. The number of pensions here will give you an idea of how popular this area is in summertime, and some are downright quirky. One consists entirely of mushroom-shaped buildings, and another has a large replica of the Statue of Liberty standing at the edge of a swimming pool. But the most intriguing feature of Seonjae Island is only visible at low tide. For a few hours every day, a narrow sandbar con- nects Seonjae to Cheuk and Mok Islands before disappearing back into the ocean. From a distance, all that’s visible of Mok Island is one small hill. At low tide, however, the sandy path that leads there from Seonjae directs you to a large sandy beach that forms behind the hill, re- vealing some prime (albeit temporary) real estate for fishermen and their floating baskets. If walking the distance seems dull, you can speed across on an ATV and explore more of the surrounding areas left exposed by the receding tide. Larger and more heavily populated, Cheuk Island boasts 38 inhabitants and is surrounded by the vast mud flats common to the western Korean coast. Once the path is exposed, so are hundreds of con- crete-mounted poles carrying power to the remote hamlet. Despite the isolation, fishermen here are in heaven, and their high spirits bubble over into generosity; don’t be surprised if your polite curi- osity is rewarded with an offer of freshly cooked crabs boiled with ramen. Each sweet bite of crab is a dream come true. If you want more seafood, head back to Seonjae Island for some of its famous oysters and short- neck clams. The kalguksu — a showstopper noo- dle soup piled with clams — is especially delicious when eaten right next to the mud flats where the clams were harvested. GeTTinG THere From exit 1 or 2 of oido Station, walk to the main road and take bus 790. It leaves every hour. Seonjae, Cheuk and Mok Islands