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Standing at the center of Jeju Island, Mt. Halla, at nearly 2,000 meters high, is the tallest moun- tain in Korea and Jeju’s crown jewel. While beau- tiful all year round, it looks spectacular in winter. Simply admiring its snow-capped peak from afar and trekking to the top to photograph its natural wonders up close in a meter of snow are completely diferent things. Afer the frst snowfall of the season, I set out. But I was stopped near the top by a frightening storm afer four hours of tough climbing through heavy snow. Not giving up, I made a second at - tempt the following weekend. Tis time, the weather was perfect: blue skies, fresh, unmarked snow and sparkling icicles hanging from every branch. I could hear the “oohs and ahhs” of oth- er hikers behind me as I snapped away with my camera. Take a hike: Gwaneumsa Trail (north) is the best route for views of Hallasan’s valleys. Seong - panak Trail (east) is the go-to trail for hiking nov- ices. Eorimok Trail (northwest) is another trail that is easily navigable for beginners. Yeongsil Trail (southwest) is the shortest trail on Hallasan. hallasan national park Jeju-do getting there From Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal take No. 1100 to Eorimok Trail or Bus 5-16 to Seongpanak Trail. B y d o u g l a s M a c d o n a l d